For those interested in what I'm going to call a "Stage 1" throttle body...

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Old 02-12-2004, 05:53 PM
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VAP
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Default For those interested in what I'm going to call a "Stage 1" throttle body...

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/s1tb.jpg"></center><p>
Here's the side-by-side pic of the Stage 1 next to an identical throttle body before conversion. You can see how much larger the primary bore is as well as the polishing, smoothing and radusing of all sharp edges. Additionally the flange lip is shaved/beveled to create a thinner ridge. Not important with stock plenum &amp; gasket but imperative if you ever convert to Stage 3 silicone hose setup.

This TB comes as you see it here with a new Audi gasket. Nothing else to buy and a straight "tit-for-tat" swap with your old TB.

Cost is $100 which includes shipping and gasket. A $200 refundable deposit will be required once I have exchange units again. And I expect any throttle bodies I get back to be clean. Just buy a $3 aerosol can of carb or brake cleaner at any auto parts store and use the ENTIRE contents on your exchange unit. If I get throttle bodies back looking like the one on the right I will deduct $10 from your deposit if you make me clean it.

I still clean these before and after machining in an ultrasonic cleaner. But if I ruin/contaminate $10 worth of ultrasonic cleaning solution by doing a throttle body that looks like the one on the right, someones gonna pay and it won't be me! Normally I can do 10 throttle bodies twice in that much solution. But one TB as dirty as the above one ruins the entire contents of the tank which then has to be drained, cleaned and refilled with fresh solution. Just so ya know.
Old 02-12-2004, 10:17 PM
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Default Do you have a side-by-side pic - the S1 TB next to a S3 TB ?

I'm ready to buy my S3 TB, by the way... I received an unexpected $400 check today from someone, and it's burning a hole in my pocket.

Question though... I hope I don't get made fun of like before for asking this... does your site automatically deduct the add'l $200 deposit, or do I send that to you seperately from the $450?
Old 02-12-2004, 10:36 PM
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Default No need to use the site. Just do it the way you did for the snub mount...

While you do need to pay for it to order you don't need to send the deposit immediately. It'll take me til mid next week to make one and I'll let you know when it's ready to ship. You can send the deposit at that time. That way you have up to 30 days to get your old TB back to me before PayPal would assess you the normal fees on your deposit.

I don't have a current S3TB pic. But I have one I finished yesterday and another to do over the weekend so I'll get a pic up before the weekends over.
Old 02-12-2004, 10:41 PM
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Default HIJACK! Mance, on that note, can I send my 90 TB to the return addres which is on my Makita box/

package? I'm looking to send it maybe even as early as Friday (feb 13)... just so you know. It's all clean too =)

check yah later
Old 02-12-2004, 10:48 PM
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Default Sure but use the included address as sometimes I abbreviate my return address on packages

Mance Etheredge
9071 E. Mississippi Ave. #24D
Denver, CO 80247

I more often than not abbreviate Mississippi to "Miss." on my return address labels and USPS/UPS/FedEx are stymied by that street name when it happens.
Old 02-12-2004, 10:55 PM
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I'll righty. Thank you sir. I'll see to it that things fall into place =)
Old 02-12-2004, 11:13 PM
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Default I saw what you did with the MAF at the other forum and while I love innovtion...

and the DIY spirit you went a little overboard on one thing. You removed most or all of the tapers inside. Those tapers are critical for flow due to Bernoulli Affect. You will get more air volume thru the MAF than stock but at a reduced velocity and less quantity than if you'd left the tapers intact.

When I do an S3 I bore an even more exaggerated inlet/outlet taper than it comes with stock. The only reason I can get away with a more aggressive angle is because I also enlarge the "waist" where the tapers meet. A straight-walled MAF also reduces the affect of the velocity stack by shortening the length of compression which in a velocity stack/S3 or stock MAF runs from the VS inlet all the way to about a half inch aft of the MAF sensor stem. In yours that area is limited to only the length of the velocity stack.

Removing the sampling tube is a great thing. But removing the taper and turning it into a "mostly" straight or totally straight tube will actually cause it to flow less air that is more turbulent due to decreased compression than had you just removed the sampling tube, sanded it smooth and left the angles intact. Decompressed air is less dense air. Compression creates density with an accompanying smoothing affect. Those angles were your friend.

And removing the screen won't damage the sensor in any way. All my Stage 3 MAFs run with their screen removed. But I don't know if you'll be able to run without a screen on that MAF due to increased turbulence even with a velocity stack. You'll have to test it. But don't put too much creedence in your findings with/without the screen in cooler/cold weather. If it's going to throw a CEL at any time it will be in warmer weather. The same reason passenger jets take off and land so smoothly in cold weather and early mornings in the summer. Hotter air is MUCH more turbulent/unstable than cool/dense air.
Old 02-12-2004, 11:34 PM
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Default Thankfully, I didn't remove MUCH of the taper...

but then, I didn't remove more material at either end of the housing. So since I'll have to be taking this apart again on Wednesday when I receive my intake, I'll just fix it then. When I remove the screen, I'll remove more material from the ends to retain my Bernouli-ness.

I also rounded-off the endges at either end of the housing.
Old 02-12-2004, 11:35 PM
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Stupid PayPal... shut down for maintenance tonight. I'll getcha the S3 TB $ when the sun comes up.
Old 02-12-2004, 11:39 PM
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S'ok, I have you penciled in


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