riddle me this 12v forum... how can my coolant go from green... to this :(
#1
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riddle me this 12v forum... how can my coolant go from green... to this :(
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jretal/A4180kTimingBeltMaintenance/photo#5210821728752803938"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/jretal/SFCOwRIyoGI/AAAAAAAAAG4/0Om2rHnZ61w/s800/IMG_3138.JPG" /></a>
Mind you, compression checks out at 170psi min across all 6 cylinders and pressure testing of the coolant system resulted in no coolant in the cylinders (that I could see).
Now, there's a possibility that I have effectively "flushed out" the green as I have had a loss of coolant over time. I would just add water, and at this point I think it's very possible that I have just flushed out the majority of the coolant and am now running a very dilluted coolant to water mix. So I'm thinking this is just rusty water from inside the block. No oil is present in the radiator water or the water drained from the block.
Figured I'd run it by you all. I hopefully found my coolant leak:
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jretal/A4180kTimingBeltMaintenance/photo#5210821493782402274"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/jretal/SFCOilze1OI/AAAAAAAAAGs/d_Ey-SPQEYA/s800/IMG_3141.JPG" /></a>
time will tell. Car is torn down and ready to receive new parts. New O2 sensors went in yesterday. I was in shock with how easily the old O2 sensors came out! Took no effort what so ever. I'm too used to my brother's CQ I guess where we had to chop the sensor in half and put an impact wrench on it to get it out!
Mind you, compression checks out at 170psi min across all 6 cylinders and pressure testing of the coolant system resulted in no coolant in the cylinders (that I could see).
Now, there's a possibility that I have effectively "flushed out" the green as I have had a loss of coolant over time. I would just add water, and at this point I think it's very possible that I have just flushed out the majority of the coolant and am now running a very dilluted coolant to water mix. So I'm thinking this is just rusty water from inside the block. No oil is present in the radiator water or the water drained from the block.
Figured I'd run it by you all. I hopefully found my coolant leak:
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jretal/A4180kTimingBeltMaintenance/photo#5210821493782402274"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/jretal/SFCOilze1OI/AAAAAAAAAGs/d_Ey-SPQEYA/s800/IMG_3141.JPG" /></a>
time will tell. Car is torn down and ready to receive new parts. New O2 sensors went in yesterday. I was in shock with how easily the old O2 sensors came out! Took no effort what so ever. I'm too used to my brother's CQ I guess where we had to chop the sensor in half and put an impact wrench on it to get it out!
#3
I've seen exactly that half a dozen times over the years. Always due to same thing...
Some time, somewhere, some how, someone added G11 pink coolant to the blue. Even in trace amounts this is what will occur.
Coolant and water won't do this, 100% coolant wont do this and 100% water won't do it. Some how someone got 2 incompatible coolants mixed together in your coolant system... it's the "only" way. Maybe by pouring water from a container that had a small amount of G11 or other incompatible coolant previously.
I'm sure the archives are full of stories about congealed/gelatinous coolant like you have as this is altogether common and likely happened at some time on EVERY forum at AudiWorld.
Coolant and water won't do this, 100% coolant wont do this and 100% water won't do it. Some how someone got 2 incompatible coolants mixed together in your coolant system... it's the "only" way. Maybe by pouring water from a container that had a small amount of G11 or other incompatible coolant previously.
I'm sure the archives are full of stories about congealed/gelatinous coolant like you have as this is altogether common and likely happened at some time on EVERY forum at AudiWorld.
#6
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unfortunately, that's nigh impossible...
as I've been around this car since new (dad's old car), and it's been service at the dealer (mechanic was a very good friend of ours and very good at what he does) or by myself. Only person adding coolant was the mechanic or myself, and it's always been the blue stuff.
Only thing I can think of that could have even potentially caused it to mix would be from me adding water from a cup that at one point in time had the green stuff I originally used in the 4000 when I bought it (prestone)... but that's unlikely as I generally rinse the cup out w/ water once done with it.
BTW, the coolant is not gelly at all... it's straight liquid. The picture makes it look like jello, but it's not.
Only thing I can think of that could have even potentially caused it to mix would be from me adding water from a cup that at one point in time had the green stuff I originally used in the 4000 when I bought it (prestone)... but that's unlikely as I generally rinse the cup out w/ water once done with it.
BTW, the coolant is not gelly at all... it's straight liquid. The picture makes it look like jello, but it's not.
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#8
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haha, yeah... pix are deceiving :)
I was being 'artsy' and decided to do an action shot :-P
btw, are you still offering to convert regular recovery sleeves to the HVRS? Just curious... shoot me an email if you would like.
figured "while it was out" kinda deals. If not, no worries.
btw, are you still offering to convert regular recovery sleeves to the HVRS? Just curious... shoot me an email if you would like.
figured "while it was out" kinda deals. If not, no worries.
#9
The non Hi-Velocity recovery sleeves have a 90+% failure rate when attempting to convert...
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/hfvssplit.jpg"></center><p>to the HVRS. Reason being that the "real deal" HVRS's had 2x the wall thickness that the non-HVRS's have. After annealing and trying to swage the VS inlet into them I had exceedingly high failure rates due to the thinness of the wall that needs to be flared. Ones that I attempted to convert were simply replaced with "real deal" HVRS's after failing but since I'm not making these any longer I don't have a well I can go to if replacement is necessary. And the early RS conversions to HV don't just have a single split... it actually has a circumferential series of fractures all the way around the inlet flare and it "wrinkles" and is just a REALLY screwed up piece of aluminum once this is attempted.