VAP

"after XTB is done?" I thought you were making your own DIY throttle body?

Skribbs2000

That's right it's a DIYTB

Brdman*

nice work, looks great

VAP

my engine finished ;-) Only thing I personally would've done differently is retained the stock sand-cast finish opting for the 20-30% more surface area and cooling efficiency (especially with engine covers installed) rather than the aesthetics of polishing/smoothing. But that's PURELY a personal call and why we have chocolate/vanilla, Chevys & Fords. And it is striking to look at.

Methinks the most likely reason you couldn't get the Bosch "blue-tops" to work is they are most likely a "peak & hold" low impedance injector rather than a "saturated" high impedance injector. It takes 4-6 amps to open a a low impedance injector then 2-3 amps to keep them open. The Hitachi ECU simply cannot deliver on that kind of amperage. My bet is if you find a saturated/high impedance injector of the same BSFC and CC/min they will work just fine. When my car had stock ECU I could fire and idle virtually ANY saturated/high impedance injector between 80cc/min and 325cc/min at 3bar fuel pressure. That's not to say the car ran "good" with them but it would idle/run with them.

One way to know for sure; if you measure ohms (resistance) across the 2 injector terminals with an ohmeter/voltmeter and you get 12-16 ohms then they are the correct saturated/high impedance injector and "should" work... least well enough to start and idle the car. However if you measure 0.5 to 6 ohms across the 2 terminals then they are in fact peak-n-hold/low impedance injectors and they're NEVER gonna fire with an OEM ECU... no matter if it's a Bosch or Hitachi.

islingtonaudi

I have developed a dribble oil leak since I got the manifold installed, it MAY have been there a while but seems worse now.
It's in the rear and weeps out where the center diff meets the bell housing if I'm correct. Here's a pic:<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/S7001389.jpg">

Could my new found vacuum levels have caused this? It's not gushing out but I need to do something fairly soon. I'm only capable of so much DIY-wise so I appreciate anyone's advice!

VAP

only other leak I've seen from that area was a leaking steering rack on our Pikes Peak Hillclimb car that was dropping oil into the timing inspection hole on an 016 transmission bellhousing and running out of that same spot.

See if you can "see/feel/smell" Pentosin, engine oil or auto trans oil as they all have their own distinct look/feel/smell.

If it's not Pentosin the results are the same either way, ie; engine/transmission MUST be separated if "fix" is on the menu.

How's ED's transmission looking about now? ;-)

islingtonaudi

my new found power is not friendly to the old seals. How difficult is it to drop the tranny and R&amp;R the input seal on a Quattro?
If I could find a shop that would do the drop/install I could do the rest I reckon but I appreciate any input.

VAP

to get to that seal. I've heard the TC can be difficult, but rather than paint any picture of doom-n-gloom I'll defer to other's experience.

BTW one teensie error in your original post. It reads something to the effect of "while lapping the valley pan gasket and cover." I don't think you meant to infer you lapped the gasket. You'll see what I mean when you re-read that small segment.

islingtonaudi

The weekend of the install I lapped the cover but I did lap the gasket months ago for fun.

VAP

I have lapped some hard plastic and aluminum gaskets I made but now I'm curious. How the hell did you lap a paper gasket? Especially a super narrow/super thin one like this without gluing one side to something which would cause it to tear when you tried to remove it to lap the other side? I mean that gasket is only .018" thick to begin with and needs to be compressed to .012" thick at 7ftlbs to seal and still have enough compliance to absorb/seal any small/minor surface imperfections on the top of the block. You been holding out on me? ;-)